Rock under the counter.

The island looks quarried. Its base is rough grey stone, as if the counter had been set on a boulder, with a stack of firewood tucked into one end. Navy stools pull up to the slab. Behind it, black cabinets hold glassware, and an espresso machine sits in a lit niche of patterned tile.

Rafaela Bruna puts the two countries side by side. Navy joinery and a ceiling papered in gold scrolls on one side, white walls drawn with blue Portuguese tiles on the other, and an arched niche of white shelves holding painted plates.

The table runs almost the length of the room, a single slab of wood with its edge left natural, set for a long lunch under globe lights. Chairs upholstered in a small houndstooth face each other across glasses in pink and blue.